Guides
Common house problems, explained straight
Plain-English guides to common household problems: what causes them, how urgent they are, what you can safely try, what repairs cost, and when to call a pro.
Plumbing
- DIY if handyUrgent
Water heater leaking: what it means and what to do
Most water heater leaks come from one of four places: the temperature-and-pressure (T&P) relief valve, the drain valve near the bottom, the pipe connections on top, or the tank itself. Leaks from valves and fittings are usually fixable with a part under $50. Water coming from the tank body means it has rusted through and needs replacing, typically $1,200 to $3,500 installed for a standard 40 to 50 gallon tank.
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Toilet keeps running: find the cause and fix it
A toilet that keeps running almost always has one of three problems inside the tank: a worn flapper that lets water leak into the bowl, a fill valve set too high so water spills into the overflow tube, or a lift chain that's too short or tangled. All three are DIY fixes with parts under $30 and 15 to 30 minutes of work. The EPA estimates a leaking toilet can waste about 200 gallons of water a day.
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No hot water: what to check on a gas or electric water heater
When a tank water heater stops making hot water, start with the simple things: a pilot that's gone out on a gas heater, or a tripped breaker or popped reset button on an electric one. If that's not it, the usual culprits are the thermocouple on a gas heater, or a heating element or thermostat on an electric one, and each typically costs $125 to $400 to have a plumber replace. If you smell gas, don't relight anything: leave the house and call your gas utility from outside.
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Clogged drain: how to clear a sink, tub or shower
Most sink, tub and shower clogs are hair, soap scum or grease within a few feet of the drain. A plunger, a plastic drain stick or a hand snake clears most of them for under $50, and a plumber typically charges $125 to $350 to clear a single drain. If several drains are slow at once, toilets gurgle when other fixtures drain, or sewage comes up in a tub or floor drain, the main line is likely blocked: stop using water and call a plumber.
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Low water pressure: one faucet or the whole house
First figure out whether it's one fixture or the whole house. Low pressure at one faucet or shower is usually a clogged aerator or showerhead that you can clean with vinegar for next to nothing. Low pressure everywhere points to a partly closed main valve, a failing pressure-reducing valve (typically $300 to $900 to replace), a hidden leak, old galvanized pipes, or a problem with the water supply. A sudden drop is worth a same-day leak check at your water meter.
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Garbage disposal not working: how to reset, unjam or replace it
If a garbage disposal hums but won't spin, it's jammed: cut the power, then work it free with a hex key (usually 1/4-inch) in the socket on the bottom of the unit. If it's completely silent, press the red reset button on the bottom and check the breaker, the wall switch and the plug. A disposal leaking from its body usually needs replacing, typically $250 to $750 installed. Never put your hand inside it, even with the power off.
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Leaky faucet: find your faucet type and stop the drip
Most drips come from a worn part inside the faucet, and the fix depends on the type. Two-handle faucets you crank down to close are compression faucets and need a new washer, sometimes a new seat. Single-handle faucets use a cartridge, a ball (common on older kitchen faucets) or a ceramic disc, and you replace that part or its seals. A leak at the base is usually worn O-rings. Parts run $5 to $60. A plumber typically charges $150 to $350 to repair a faucet, and $250 to $800 to install a new one.
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Frozen pipes: how to thaw them safely and what to do if one bursts
No water or only a trickle from a faucet in freezing weather usually means a pipe has frozen, most often under a sink or in a wall on an outside wall, or in a crawl space, garage or attic. Find your main shut-off first, then open the faucet and warm the pipe with a hair dryer, heating pad or warm towels, starting nearest the faucet. Never use an open flame, torch or propane heater. If a pipe has split, shut off the main and call a plumber: a burst pipe repair typically runs $200 to $1,000, plus drywall and cleanup if it's in a wall.
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Electrical
- Call a proUrgent
Breaker keeps tripping: causes and when it's dangerous
A breaker that trips is doing its job: cutting power before wiring overheats. The usual causes are an overloaded circuit, a short circuit, a ground fault, or an arc fault picked up by an AFCI breaker. If it only trips when a space heater, microwave or hair dryer is running, it's probably an overload you can fix by moving things to other circuits. If it trips the instant you reset it, smells hot, or shows scorch marks, stop resetting it and call an electrician.
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GFCI outlet won't reset: what it means and what's safe to try
A GFCI outlet that won't reset usually has no power, is detecting a real ground fault, or has worn out. Check the breaker and press Reset on every other GFCI in the house: one GFCI can protect several outlets, and most newer ones won't reset without power. If it still won't reset with everything unplugged, a new GFCI costs $15 to $35 in parts or about $125 to $300 installed by an electrician. If there's water in or near the outlet, leave it off and call an electrician.
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Smoke or CO detector chirping: why, and how to make it stop
A smoke or carbon monoxide (CO) detector that chirps once every 30 to 60 seconds usually needs a new battery. If it keeps chirping with a fresh battery, check the manufacture date on the back: smoke alarms should be replaced 10 years after that date, and many chirp at end of life. A battery costs a few dollars and a new alarm about $15 to $80. A loud, repeating alarm is different: treat it as real, and if it's a CO alarm, get everyone outside and call 911.
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Lights flickering or dimming: when it's the bulb and when it's the wiring
When one light flickers, it's usually a loose or failing bulb, or LED bulbs on an old dimmer that wasn't made for them: tighten or swap the bulb, or fit an LED-rated dimmer for $15 to $60. A brief dip when a big appliance starts is normal. Flicker on several lights, or that new bulbs don't fix, points to a worn switch or a loose connection that can overheat, typically $150 to $400 for an electrician to find and fix. If the whole house flickers, or some lights brighten while others dim, call the utility and an electrician right away.
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HVAC
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AC running but not cooling: what to check before you call
When an AC runs but blows warm air, start with the cheap fixes: a clogged air filter, a thermostat set to Heat or Fan On, a tripped breaker for the outdoor unit, or a dirty, blocked outdoor coil. If those check out and the outdoor fan isn't spinning or the lines are iced over, you likely need a technician for a capacitor, a refrigerant leak or another part. A capacitor replacement typically runs $150 to $450, and a refrigerant leak repair $300 to $1,500 or more.
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Furnace not turning on or not heating: what to check first
When a furnace won't turn on or blows cold air, check the easy things first: the thermostat set to Heat with fresh batteries, the power switch and breaker on, a clean filter, and the front panel on tight. If those check out, the usual culprits are a dirty flame sensor, a failed igniter, or a clogged condensate drain on a high-efficiency furnace, typically $75 to $450 to fix. If a carbon monoxide alarm sounds or you smell gas, get everyone out and call 911 or your gas utility from outside.
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Walls & Paint
- DIYCosmetic
Cracks in drywall: which are normal and which aren't
Most drywall cracks are cosmetic: hairline cracks at the corners of doors and windows or along taped seams, caused by normal settling, humidity swings and framing lumber drying out. They're a DIY patch for under $30. Cracks wider than about 1/4 inch, cracks that keep growing, or cracks that come with sticking doors, sloping floors or a sagging ceiling can point to foundation or structural movement and deserve a look from a structural engineer.
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Mold on the bathroom ceiling or walls: clean it and stop it coming back
Mold on a bathroom ceiling or wall is a moisture problem, and it comes back until the moisture is fixed: usually shower steam that isn't vented out, a weak exhaust fan, a cold spot under the attic, or a leak. Patches under about 10 square feet are a DIY cleanup with detergent and water, gloves, goggles and an N-95 mask, for under $50. If it's bigger, keeps coming back, smells musty or comes with water damage, call a pro: professional mold cleanup in a bathroom typically runs $500 to $3,000 or more.
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Roof & Gutters
- Call a proUrgent
Roof leaking: what to do right now and what's causing it
Most roof leaks start where something passes through the roof: the flashing around a chimney, vent or skylight, or a cracked rubber boot around a plumbing vent pipe. Missing shingles, clogged gutters and valleys, and winter ice dams come next. Right now, catch the water, move valuables, switch off power to any wet light fixture, and take photos. Leave the roof itself to a roofer: most leak repairs run $400 to $1,500, and an emergency tarp typically costs $200 to $1,000.
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Gutters overflowing in the rain: why it happens and how to fix it
Gutters that overflow in the rain are usually clogged: leaves, needles or shingle grit in the gutter, or a blocked downspout. If they're clean and still spill over, the gutter is probably sagging or sloped the wrong way, or too small for the water coming off the roof, often below a roof valley. Cleaning a single-story house from a ladder is a DIY job. Pros typically charge $100 to $250 to clean a one-story house and $150 to $450 for two stories. Water dumping next to the house can end up in the basement, so don't put it off.
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Missing shingles after wind: what to do and whether to repair or replace
A few missing shingles after a windstorm is urgent but rarely an emergency: the next rain can run under the neighboring shingles to the roof deck, and wind peels more off the exposed edges. Stay off the roof. Photograph the damage from the ground, check the attic for drips, and have a roofer tarp or repair it before the next rain. Replacing a few shingles typically costs $250 to $750. On a roof around 20 years old or older, or with widespread damage, replacing it often makes more sense. Sudden wind and hail damage is usually covered by homeowners insurance, so call your insurer promptly.
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Appliances
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Dishwasher not draining: clear the filter, drain path and pump
Standing water in a dishwasher usually means a clogged filter, a garbage disposal that's full or still has its knockout plug in, a clogged air gap, or a kinked drain hose. Run the disposal for 20 to 30 seconds first, since the dishwasher drains into it, then clean the filter under the lower spray arm and the air gap cap by the faucet. If the pump hums or stays silent and nothing drains, the drain pump has likely failed, typically $200 to $450 for an appliance tech to replace.
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Washing machine not draining: how to empty it and find the cause
A washer that leaves water in the drum usually has a clogged drain pump filter, a kinked or clogged drain hose, a faulty lid switch or door lock, or a failed drain pump. Unplug it first. On a front-loader, drain the water through the small hose behind the bottom access panel into a shallow pan, then unscrew the filter and clear out socks, coins and lint. If the pump hums but won't pump, or the standpipe backs up, call a pro: a new drain pump typically costs $200 to $450 installed.
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Refrigerator not cooling: what to check and when it's worth fixing
A refrigerator that isn't cooling usually has dirty condenser coils, a failed condenser or evaporator fan, a frosted-over evaporator from a defrost failure, or leaky door seals. If the freezer is cold but the fridge is warm, suspect the evaporator fan or frost. Check the temperature setting, then unplug it and vacuum the coils. Fan and defrost repairs typically run $150 to $450. A compressor or refrigerant repair needs an EPA-certified tech and costs $500 to $1,500 or more, rarely worth it on a fridge over about 10 years old.
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Dryer not heating: check the vent first, then the parts
A dryer that tumbles but won't heat most often has a clogged lint screen or vent, or a thermal fuse that blew because the vent was clogged. Electric dryers also lose heat when a heating element fails or when half of the 240-volt circuit loses power. On gas dryers, the usual suspects are the igniter and the gas valve coils. Clean the lint screen and vent first, because a clogged vent is also a fire hazard. Most of these repairs typically cost $100 to $400 from an appliance tech.
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Doors & Windows
- DIY if handyUrgent
Garage door won't close: sensors, springs and what's safe to fix
A garage door that starts down and then reverses, or won't close at all, most often has a safety sensor problem: the two small photo eyes near the floor on each side of the door are dirty, blocked or out of line. Clean the lenses, clear the path and adjust them until both lights glow steadily. Also check for a lock button on the wall control and a dead remote battery. A loud bang, a gap in the spring above the door or a loose cable means a broken spring or cable. Don't touch those: a technician typically charges $150 to $600 to replace the springs.
Read the guide - Call a proCosmetic
Condensation between window panes: why it happens and what fixes it
Fog or moisture between the two panes of a double-pane window means the edge seal of the insulated glass unit (IGU) has failed and humid air has gotten into the gap. It can't be wiped off or fixed from either side. It's mostly cosmetic: the window loses a little insulating value. Check the manufacturer's warranty first, since many cover seal failure for 10 to 20 years, or for life for the original owner. Otherwise, replacing just the glass unit typically costs $150 to $700 per window, well below the price of a new window.
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Door sticking or not latching: how to fix it and when it's a warning sign
Most sticking doors come from loose hinge screws that let the door sag, humidity that swells the wood in summer, paint built up on the edges, or a strike plate that no longer lines up with the latch. Start by tightening every hinge screw. If the door still rubs at the top on the latch side, drive a 3-inch screw through the top hinge into the stud behind the jamb. Plane the edge only as a last resort. If several doors stick at once, or you see new cracks above doors or sloping floors, have a structural engineer check for foundation movement, typically $300 to $800.
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Outdoor
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Foundation cracks: how to tell a normal crack from a structural problem
Most foundation cracks are thin, vertical hairline cracks in poured concrete, left by the concrete shrinking as it cured. They're usually cosmetic and only need sealing if they leak, typically $300 to $1,000 for a pro to inject one crack. Horizontal cracks, bowing walls, stair-step cracks that keep widening, and cracks wider than about 1/4 inch or offset point to soil pressure or settlement. Get a structural engineer's evaluation before you call a repair company. Mark the crack's ends in pencil with the date to see if it grows.
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Rotting deck boards: how to check for rot and when a deck is unsafe
Soft, spongy or crumbling wood on a deck is rot, and where it is matters more than how much. Push a screwdriver into the wood: if it sinks in more than about 1/4 inch or the wood comes out soft and crumbly, it's rotting. A few rotted deck boards are a DIY swap for $50 to $250. Rot in the ledger (where the deck attaches to the house), the posts or the joists is structural: keep people off and call a deck builder. Ledger failure is a leading cause of deck collapses. Gray, weathered wood that's still hard is fine.
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Outdoor faucet leaking: fix a dripping spigot or a leak inside the wall
Where it leaks tells you the fix. A leak at the hose threads is a worn hose washer. A drip from the spout with the handle closed is a worn washer inside the spigot, and a leak around the handle is loose packing. Water from the cap on top is a worn vacuum breaker. Those are DIY fixes for $5 to $30. If water shows up in the basement or wall when the spigot runs, a frost-free sillcock has probably split from freezing with a hose attached: shut off its interior valve and call a plumber. Replacing one typically runs $200 to $500.
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Other problems
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