Appliances guide
Dryer not heating: check the vent first, then the parts
By the Home Doctor team · Reviewed
Quick answer
A dryer that tumbles but won't heat most often has a clogged lint screen or vent, or a thermal fuse that blew because the vent was clogged. Electric dryers also lose heat when a heating element fails or when half of the 240-volt circuit loses power. On gas dryers, the usual suspects are the igniter and the gas valve coils. Clean the lint screen and vent first, because a clogged vent is also a fire hazard. Most of these repairs typically cost $100 to $400 from an appliance tech.
- How urgent
- Fix soon
A dryer with no heat isn't dangerous by itself, but the most common cause, a clogged vent, is a fire risk. Clean the vent before you run it with heat again. It's 'stop and call a pro now' if you smell burning or gas.
- DIY or pro
- DIY if handy
Cleaning the lint screen and vent and resetting the breaker are DIY. Testing and replacing a thermal fuse or heating element is a handy job with a multimeter and a nut driver. Gas valve coils and igniters are best left to an appliance tech, and anything that means disconnecting the gas line is a pro job.
Stop and call a pro now if
- Burning smell, smoke, or the dryer or vent is too hot to touch: turn it off, unplug it or switch off the breaker, and don't run it until the vent and dryer are checked.
- Flames or smoke inside the drum: keep the door closed, get everyone out and call 911 from outside.
- Gas dryer and you smell gas or rotten eggs: don't touch switches or unplug anything. Leave the house and call your gas utility or 911 from outside.
- The vent is plastic or foil accordion duct, or it's crushed or disconnected: stop using the dryer until it's replaced with rigid or semi-rigid metal duct. On a gas dryer, a disconnected vent can also push carbon monoxide into the house.
Common causes and how to tell them apart
1. Clogged lint screen or vent
- How to tell
- Loads take two or three cycles to dry, the laundry room gets hot and humid, and little air comes out of the outside vent hood. Lint collects behind the dryer or around the door.
- What fixes it
- Clean the lint screen every load, and scrub it with a soft brush and dish soap if water pools on it. Clean the whole vent at least once a year, and replace plastic or foil duct with metal.
2. Blown thermal fuse
- How to tell
- The drum turns but there's no heat at all, often after a stretch of long drying times. On some models a blown fuse stops the dryer completely.
- What fixes it
- With the dryer unplugged, test the fuse on the exhaust duct or blower housing with a multimeter and replace it if it has no continuity. Clean the vent too: fuses blow because the dryer overheated, and a new one will blow again. Never bypass it.
3. Half the 240-volt circuit is down (electric)
- How to tell
- An electric dryer tumbles but gives no heat at all. The motor runs on one half of the 240-volt circuit, but the element needs both halves, so a partly tripped or failing double-pole breaker, one blown fuse in an older fuse box, or a loose wire at the cord can cut the heat.
- What fixes it
- Switch the double-pole breaker (usually 30 amps) fully off, then back on. If the heat doesn't come back, or it trips again, have an electrician check the breaker, outlet and cord.
4. Failed heating element (electric)
- How to tell
- The breaker, thermal fuse and vent all check out, but there's still no heat. The coil may be visibly broken.
- What fixes it
- With the dryer unplugged, test the element for continuity. A broken coil means a new element. Many come with a new high-limit thermostat, and it's worth replacing both.
5. Gas valve coils or igniter (gas)
- How to tell
- On a gas dryer, the igniter glows, then goes dark without the burner lighting, or the flame lights and goes out: usually the gas valve coils. If the igniter never glows, the igniter or the flame sensor is the likely culprit.
- What fixes it
- Check that the gas shutoff behind the dryer is open, with the handle in line with the pipe. Coils and igniters are common, inexpensive parts, but it's work on a gas appliance: have an appliance tech do it unless you're experienced.
Not sure which one you have?
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What you can safely try first
- 1Check the setting. Air Fluff, Air Dry and other no-heat settings tumble without heat.
- 2Clean the lint screen. If water pools on it under the tap, scrub it with a soft brush and dish soap.
- 3Run the dryer and check the outside vent hood: the flap should open and you should feel strong airflow. Weak airflow means a clogged vent.
- 4Electric: switch the dryer's double-pole breaker fully off, then back on.
- 5Gas: make sure the shutoff valve on the pipe behind the dryer is open, with the handle in line with the pipe.
- 6Unplug the dryer (and turn off the gas on a gas dryer), pull it out and clean the duct and vent with a vent brush kit. Replace plastic or foil duct with metal.
When to call a pro
- Still no heat after you've cleaned the vent and reset the breaker.
- The thermal fuse blows again after a vent cleaning.
- A gas dryer's burner won't light, or you smell gas.
- The breaker trips again, or you see scorch marks at the outlet, cord or the cord's terminal block.
- The vent runs through the roof, a long run or inside walls you can't reach.
What it costs
| Job | DIY parts | Pro, installed |
|---|---|---|
| Appliance repair diagnostic visit | — | $75–$200 |
| Clean the dryer vent | $15–$40 | $100–$250 |
| Replace plastic or foil duct with metal | $15–$50 | $100–$250 |
| Replace thermal fuse | $10–$30 | $100–$250 |
| Replace heating element (electric) | $30–$100 | $150–$400 |
| Replace gas valve coils or igniter (gas) | Not recommended | $150–$400 |
Ballpark US ranges as of September 28, 2026. Your region, access and the specifics of your home can move these a lot. Get two or three quotes for anything over a few hundred dollars.
What to tell the pro
My [electric / gas] dryer, about [age] years old, tumbles but [doesn't heat at all / only gets a little warm]. Loads [had been taking longer to dry / dried normally until now]. I've cleaned the lint screen and [cleaned the vent / checked the airflow at the outside hood / reset the breaker / checked the gas valve is open]. The vent is [rigid metal / semi-rigid metal / foil or plastic] and runs about [length] to [an outside wall / the roof]. Can you find the cause before replacing parts, and does your price include cleaning the vent if it's clogged?
Questions people ask
Why is my dryer running but not heating?
The most common cause is a clogged lint screen or vent, often with a thermal fuse that blew because the dryer overheated. On an electric dryer, a failed heating element or half of the 240-volt circuit losing power also stops the heat. On a gas dryer, look at the igniter and the gas valve coils.
Can a clogged dryer vent stop a dryer from heating?
Yes. A clogged vent traps hot air, so the dryer overheats and its safety thermostats cut the heat or the thermal fuse blows. It's also a fire risk. Clean the lint screen every load and the whole vent at least once a year.
How much does it cost to fix a dryer that's not heating?
Most repairs are small. A thermal fuse typically costs $100 to $250 installed, and a heating element, gas valve coils or igniter $150 to $400. A professional vent cleaning runs about $100 to $250, and it's often the real fix.
Is it safe to use a dryer with a foil or plastic vent?
No. Plastic and thin foil accordion duct sags, crushes and traps lint, which raises the risk of a fire. Most dryer makers call for rigid or semi-rigid metal duct, kept as short and straight as you can. Never vent a dryer into an attic, crawl space or wall cavity.
Get an answer for your house
Every house is different. A photo gets you the likely cause, how urgent it is, and a fair price, in about 30 seconds.
Diagnose it from a photoFirst diagnosis free. No account needed.
General guidance, not a substitute for a licensed professional who can see the problem in person. If you smell gas, see sparks or smoke, or anyone is hurt, leave the area and call 911.