Doors & Windows guide
Door sticking or not latching: how to fix it and when it's a warning sign
By the Home Doctor team · Reviewed
Quick answer
Most sticking doors come from loose hinge screws that let the door sag, humidity that swells the wood in summer, paint built up on the edges, or a strike plate that no longer lines up with the latch. Start by tightening every hinge screw. If the door still rubs at the top on the latch side, drive a 3-inch screw through the top hinge into the stud behind the jamb. Plane the edge only as a last resort. If several doors stick at once, or you see new cracks above doors or sloping floors, have a structural engineer check for foundation movement, typically $300 to $800.
- How urgent
- Fix soon
A rubbing interior door is an annoyance, but forcing it wears out the hinges, latch and frame. An exterior door that won't latch or lock is more pressing. It's a bigger concern if several doors stick at once along with new cracks or sloping floors.
- DIY or pro
- DIY
Tightening hinges, the 3-inch screw trick and adjusting the strike plate need only a drill and a screwdriver. Planing an edge is a handy job. Rehanging a door, repairing a rotted frame and any structural question are for a carpenter or structural engineer.
Stop and call a pro now if
- Several doors and windows start sticking at once, with new cracks in the walls or foundation or floors that slope: have a structural engineer look before you plane or rehang anything.
- The frame is cracked, soft or rotted, or pulling away from the wall: stop forcing the door and call a carpenter. There may be water damage or a failing header above it.
Common causes and how to tell them apart
1. Loose hinge screws
- How to tell
- The door rubs at the top corner on the latch side, and the gap at the top on the hinge side is wide. Screws in the top hinge are loose or spin in their holes.
- What fixes it
- Tighten every hinge screw. Fill stripped holes, or drive a 3-inch screw through the top hinge into the stud behind the jamb.
2. Humidity swelling
- How to tell
- The door sticks in humid summer weather or after rain and works fine in winter. Wood doors with unpainted top or bottom edges are the worst.
- What fixes it
- Run the AC or a dehumidifier. If you plane it, wait for a dry spell, and seal every edge afterward, including the top and bottom.
3. Paint buildup
- How to tell
- Thick, lumpy layers of paint on the door edge, the jamb or the doorstop. A freshly painted door may stick to the stop.
- What fixes it
- Scrape or sand the built-up paint off the edge and jamb, repaint with thin coats, and let the paint cure for a few days before closing the door tightly.
4. Strike plate out of line
- How to tell
- The door closes but won't latch unless you push, pull or lift it. The strike plate is scratched above or below its opening.
- What fixes it
- File the strike opening a little larger, or move the plate so it lines up with the latch.
5. House settling
- How to tell
- The gap around the door is uneven, for example wider at one end of the top than the other, and the door looks out of square in its frame. Common in newer houses and with seasonal soil movement.
- What fixes it
- Minor settling is normal. Use the 3-inch screw trick or shim a hinge to square the door, then plane any spot that still rubs.
6. Foundation or structural movement
- How to tell
- Several doors and windows start sticking at once, with new diagonal cracks in the drywall above door corners, floors that slope, or cracks in the foundation or brick.
- What fixes it
- Have a structural engineer find the cause before you plane or rehang doors, or you'll keep chasing the movement.
Not sure which one you have?
Snap a photo. Home Doctor narrows it down, tells you how urgent it is, and prices the fix.
Diagnose it from a photoFirst diagnosis free. No account needed.
What you can safely try first
- 1Close the door slowly and look at the gap around it. It should be even, about 1/8 inch. A tight spot or worn, shiny paint shows where it rubs. Tight at the top on the latch side means the door is sagging.
- 2Open the door and tighten every hinge screw on the door and the jamb. If a screw just spins, pack the hole with wooden toothpicks or a golf tee dipped in wood glue, snap them off flush and drive the screw back in.
- 3If it still rubs at the top on the latch side, replace one jamb-side screw in the top hinge with a 3-inch screw. Use the hole closest to the doorstop so it reaches the stud, and tighten gently: it pulls the top of the door back toward the hinge side.
- 4If the latch won't catch, color the latch with a marker or lipstick and close the door. The mark shows where it hits the strike plate. File the opening a little, or move the plate to line up.
- 5If it still rubs, mark the tight spot and sand or plane it a little at a time, taking the door off its hinges if needed. Seal the bare wood with primer and paint or finish, including the top and bottom edges.
When to call a pro
- Several doors or windows start sticking at the same time.
- New cracks appear in the drywall above doors, floors slope, or the foundation has cracks.
- The frame is cracked, rotted or pulling away from the wall.
- An exterior door won't latch or lock after you've adjusted the hinges and strike.
- The door needs rehanging or replacing, or more than about 1/4 inch taken off.
What it costs
| Job | DIY parts | Pro, installed |
|---|---|---|
| Tighten hinges or add 3-inch screws | $5–$15 | $100–$200 |
| Adjust or move the strike plate | $5–$20 | $100–$200 |
| Plane and refinish a door edge | $20–$60 | $150–$350 |
| Replace an interior prehung door | $80–$350 | $300–$1,000 |
| Replace an exterior prehung door | Not recommended | $800–$3,500 |
| Structural engineer evaluation | — | $300–$800 |
Ballpark US ranges as of September 28, 2026. Your region, access and the specifics of your home can move these a lot. Get two or three quotes for anything over a few hundred dollars.
What to tell the pro
My [interior / exterior] door [rubs at the top / rubs along the latch side / drags on the floor / won't latch]. The gap around it is [even / wider at the top on the hinge side / uneven]. It started [suddenly / gradually / in humid weather]. I've [tightened the hinge screws / added a 3-inch screw / adjusted the strike plate]. [Only this door / Several doors and windows] stick, and I [have / haven't] noticed new cracks above doors or sloping floors. Can you fix it by adjusting the hinges and strike, or does it need planing or rehanging, and does your price include sealing and painting the edge?
Questions people ask
Why is my door suddenly sticking?
Usually humidity or a loose hinge. Wood swells in humid weather, and a loose top hinge screw lets the door sag into the frame. Tighten the hinge screws first. If several doors start sticking at once, with new cracks or sloping floors, have a structural engineer check the foundation.
How do I fix a door that won't latch?
The latch and the strike plate no longer line up. Color the latch with a marker or lipstick, close the door, and see where the mark lands on the strike plate. If it's off by about 1/8 inch or less, file the opening in the strike. If it's off by more, tighten the hinges first, then move the strike plate.
Should I plane a door that sticks in summer?
Try everything else first, and if you do plane it, wait for a drier stretch. A door planed while swollen can leave a large gap once it shrinks in winter. Take off only what's needed, then seal the bare edge with primer and paint or finish so it doesn't soak up moisture again.
Can a sticking door mean foundation problems?
It can, but usually it doesn't. One sticking door is almost always hinges, humidity or paint. Several doors and windows sticking at once, especially with new diagonal cracks above door corners, sloping floors or cracks in the foundation, point to foundation movement worth an engineer's look.
Get an answer for your house
Every house is different. A photo gets you the likely cause, how urgent it is, and a fair price, in about 30 seconds.
Diagnose it from a photoFirst diagnosis free. No account needed.
General guidance, not a substitute for a licensed professional who can see the problem in person. If you smell gas, see sparks or smoke, or anyone is hurt, leave the area and call 911.